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This release marks an important milestone for us: it is the first Bolivian coffee ever featured on our menu. The lot was produced by seven smallholder farmers in the Tayapiplaya colonia (municipality) in the Caranavi region, the heart of Bolivia’s specialty coffee movement. Their names are Wilfredo Calisaya, Delia Ticona, Ruben Acho, Paulino Guiterrez, Julia Navarro, Alberto Munoz. This community lot is made up of three Arabica varieties: typica, caturra and catuai. It was anaerobically fermented after being depulped, which amplifies the sweetness in the cup. There are many experimental variations of anaerobic processed coffee, here, coffee seeds are removed from the cherry, and rest in a stainless airtight container for 24 hours, and are then dried in a mechanical dryer. Bolivia produces some of the most geographically unique coffees in the world. Grown at exceptionally high elevations and near the lowest latitude of any coffee-producing country, Bolivian coffee’s distinctive character can be described as having bright malic acidity (apple-pear), and complex delicate sugars. This is shaped by cool mountain climates and longer maturation periods where the Andes mountains meet the Amazon basin, and the rich volcanic soil.
Coffee farms in Tayapiplaya are typically small. Most producers like the ones contributing to this lot manage between two and three hectares of land growing other crops such as cacao, cassava, fruit, and coca alongside coffee to diversify their income. Coffee remains a vital agricultural product, however, and the specialty market has become an increasingly important opportunity for producers to earn higher prices and build a more sustainable future for their families.
We purchased this coffee from Apex Coffee Imports in Montreal, who sourced it from the Bolivian exporter and dry mill Agricafé. Agricafé is run by the Rodriguez family—Pedro Rodriguez, a pioneer of specialty coffee in Bolivia with more than 30 years of experience, and his children Daniela Rodriguez and Pedro Pablo Rodriguez. Together they operate a network of farms and processing infrastructure designed not only for their own coffee production, but also to support hundreds of neighboring smallholder farmers. Farmers contributing to this lot partook in the Sol de Mañana program of Agricafe launched in 2014 with just 14 farmers, now supporting more than 100 producers working to improve quality, sustainability, and farm profitability through agronomy education, quality improvement training and specialty market access.
The Agricafé mill, Buena Vista, plays an important role in strengthening the local coffee economy. Historically, many wet mills across producing countries have been owned by large international corporations focused primarily on maximizing export volumes rather than farmer profitability. Agricafé takes a different approach, working closely with small producers to provide processing services, technical support, and access to specialty markets.
Exporting high-quality Bolivian coffee is no small feat. Compared to neighboring coffee-producing countries, Bolivia exports relatively small volumes, and the logistics of transporting coffee from remote mountain farms to mills, dry processing facilities, and shipping ports can be complex and time-consuming. Maintaining quality through this journey requires careful coordination and attention at every step.
Despite these challenges, coffees like this Tayapiplaya lot demonstrate the extraordinary potential of Bolivian coffee. They represent a collaborative effort between farmers, processors, exporters, and importers who share a commitment to quality, sustainability, and long-term relationships.
Coffee production in Caranavi expanded in the 1960s following Bolivia’s agricultural reform and increased private investment in mills and infrastructure, with export volumes peaking in the 1990s as international companies prioritized large-scale production. While this growth strengthened the industry, the focus remained largely on volume rather than quality or farmer profitability. In the early 2000s, development programs and local initiatives began supporting specialty coffee as an alternative to coca cultivation, investing in infrastructure, farmer training, and improved processing to help producers access higher-quality markets.
At the center of this system is Agricafé’s Buena Vista mill near Caranavi. Farmers from surrounding communities—including Tayapiplaya, where this coffee was produced—deliver freshly harvested coffee cherries to the mill, often traveling several hours through steep mountain terrain to reach it. Once received, the cherries are carefully processed, dried, and prepared for export with a strong focus on quality.